M1 Garand serial number / stock cartouche list. (Springfield Armory / Stanley P. The drawing numbers were used on rifles in the serial number range 81 to. More Springfield Serial Numbers M1 Garand videos.

Military M1 Rifle (Garand): Springfield: Covering numbers: 1 - 6020771. Please enter a serial number and click the submit button. Military M1 Rifle (Garand): Springfield: Covering numbers: 1 - 6020771. Please enter a serial number and click the submit button. Length Conversion Worksheet Pdf.

Hello all, I have just recently purchased a Springfield M1 Garand. There are markings on it that I would like to find informaiton about. Here is what I am talking about: On the Bolt: D28287-19SA.underneath that is D-17 On trigger housing: D28290-14-SA Is there someplace on the internet to locate what these mean? Receiver SN# Goes back to May 1945 The barrel has markings on S-A-4-50, with what also looks like an ' M ' or a ' W ' about 5 inches to the left of the date. I know the barrel doesnt match the manufacture date, but what about the Bolt and Trigger houseing? Thanks in advance! 93sr20det, I paid $650.00 for it, the stock is what caught my eye.

New Holland 7740 Manual. It is not original but a very darkish burgendy color that is very nice looking when oiled. I have no idea what kind of wood it is. I fired it today, this is the first time I have ever fired or loaded one. I had read in the manual about the ' garand thumb ' and was worried about getting my thumb caught. Consequently the first 3 clips I fired thru it, they all ejected after the third or fourth round.

At first I had bought a lemon, then I read the manual again and loaded it more correctly I guess. I had no problems after that, I just made sure the magazine was down all the way and have thumb gone! All in all I am very happy with it. What a monster Thanks for the reply Rchjr. When loading, place your thumb near the shoulder of the case, and keep the flat of your hand alongside the stock.

That way if the bolt does come forward (not all of them do, and the clip itself can influance this also) it will first contact your hand which will force your thumb out of the way of the bolt. BTW, the Garand isn't the only system that can bite you, my wife got her thumb caught in a SKS bolt, the stripper clip slot did a nice job of 'holding on' too. Seems she pushed the cartridge to far to the rear and tripped the 'hold open latch' releasing the bolt. Looks as if you have quite a few '45 issue parts, including the trigger housing and bolt.

Late style locking bars would be great. An 'NFR' cartouched stock would be ideal--I just found a nice one with, unfortunately, a bad crack, which I am repairing for yet another restoration.

Harrison, despite a few errors, has about the best detail parts assortment info. The general concepts in my books, photographically, are decent, too, albeit a lot of people ignore the McClain rule: 'Never say never, and NO date is absolute!' On the Bolt: D28287-19SA.underneath that is D-17 On trigger housing: D28290-14-SA The barrel has markings on S-A-4-50, with what also looks like an ' M ' or a ' W ' about 5 inches to the left of the date. Numbers you are asking about are drawing numbers.

They reference the engineering drawings used to manufacture the rifle. On the bolt, you use drawing number 28287. The -19 is a reference to the revision of the drawing number. Lower drawing numbers are generally related to early parts. The SA is a reference to Springfield Armory. The D-17 is the heat lot of the metal used in the bolt. HTH, a lot of generalities.

As you dig into collector Garands you'll find lots of exceptions to the rules. Get Scott Duff's books as mentioned above. As noted, the trigger housing and bolt are definitely in the proper range. Trying to get a 'date correct' barrel can lead to a lot of frustration. There are more fakes than real, and some very tired ones being sold to the unwary only capable of measuring the costmetics. Plus, 1945 tubes are BRUTALLY expensive if/when found. A set of 'squared corner' (some people call them 'type 3') locking bar sights would DEFINITELY be right, although with a lot of this stuff, restoring means going back to the older style parts like the locking bars and uncut rods, found to have serious flaws.